L'Abattoir

There are people who plan weeks in advance, make reservations, and actually write down the address of a restaurant. We are not those people. After balking at the wait at Café Salade de Fruits, we were headed to Au Petit Chavignol. After four buses and getting within two blocks of the restaurant, we finally ended up at Pigeon Park. At this point, we were getting pretty hungry, so we walked down Carrall Street because we knew that Salt Tasting Room was in the vicinity. Then we remembered that L'Abattoir had opened just a couple of weeks ago.

Looking in through the floor to ceiling windows, the restaurant looked amazing, from the snazzy bar to the mezzanine dining area. When we entered we were struck by the ingenuity of the mason-jar chandelier and matching lights.

Having no expectations of getting a table at all, we were pleasantly surprised when the hostess estimated a wait of only about fifteen to twenty minutes. A few minutes later, after space opened up at the bar, the manager asked us if we wanted to wait at the bar. Naturally, we jumped at the chance.

To assuage a long-standing craving for a French 75, the first cocktail was obvious.

For the second, we tried the signature Slaughterhouse, an intriguing mix of cognac, sugar, Elixer Vegital, orange oils, aromatic bitters, served with a green chartreuse mist.

There were two bartenders working that night, and we forced David to choose our next cocktail, which he did with a smile. The Aviation, a refreshing mix of gin, fresh lemon, and creme de violet, garnished with maraschino, had a gentle sourness that worked very well.

We didn't have a chance to order a fourth drink, as our table was ready. The hostess carried our drinks to the table, we bid farewell to the bar. We were brought to the atrium-like back room right on Gaoler's Mews. Especially notable is the impressive hand-picked driftwood sculpture hanging from the rafters.

With so many appealing choices on the menu, it was a little difficult until we remembered that the winter menu probably wouldn't have three fresh fish options.

Explaining that they were still building up their wine list, our server gladly offered to send over the sommelier, Jake Skakun, to discuss wines there weren't on their short wine menu. Given we were eating mostly seafood, he suggested a dry Tokaji. Now we enjoy the almost cloying quality of the Tokaji dessert wine, but we'd never tasted dry wine from Hungary. We started off with two glasses.

Oremus '05 Dry Tokaji 'Mandolas'

The bread basket was a treat, with bacon brioche, anchovy twists and peppery crisps.

The Mostaccioli pasta with home-made mozzarella cheese, Borlotti beans, and zucchini were a delight, though I would have preferred a little less salt in the zucchini.

The raw Pacific oysters with asparagus strudels, potatoes "en escabeche", and lemon butter sauce also were a success.

At this point, no surprise, we were running out of wine. One of us continued on with the Tokaji, while the other switched to a fabulous chardonnay from Burgundy.

white burgundy

The steamed fillet of ling cod came with celeriac croquettes, glazed celery, artichokes, tomato olive oil sauce. As wonderful as the ling cod and other items were on the plate, I really enjoyed the croquettes.

celeriac croquettes

The poached halibut with mussels and spinach dumplings, ragout of early summer vegetables and basil, and garlic sabayon was actually fun to eat besides being delicious. The zucchini "fish scales" were an attractive detail.

The Rum Baba, with citrus confit, golden raisins, currants and chantilly cream, paired beautifully with the Lustau PX 'San Emilio' sherry.

The chocolate yogurt custard, served with compressed strawberries, caramelized phyllo shards, and cocoa nib sauce, had a rich dark chocolate flavour that worked very well with my double macchiato.

 at the end of the night

Service was top-notch, with seemingly everyone concerned about your enjoyment. In fact, they all looked happy to be there themselves.

All the design elements, while varied, all tied in together: the lighting, the brick, exposed and painted, the use of wood. Even the restrooms were as beautiful as the dining areas.

We were able to get a table without a reservation on a long weekend Friday evening, but chances are, if the folks at L'Abattoir keep doing what they're doing, next time we won't be so lucky.